Metal cap flashing/drip edge on windows and doors question – GreenBuildingAdvisor

Working on a project where we’re installing flanged windows (Milgard Ultra 650), some flanged doors and a flangeless door.

We’ve flashed the rough openings either with Zip tape or Prosoco Fast Flash, wet set the flanges (except for bottom) in Fast Flash and Fast Flashed over the flanges (except for bottom).  Plan is to go over the Zip sheathing and overlap the flanges with a 2nd WRB (Delta Vent).

Note:  we will be going over the 2-layer WRB with 1 1/2″ Rockwool, 1×4 furring strips for a rainscreen and traditional paper-backed lathe and 3-coat stucco bullnosed to the windows and doors so there will be some extra protection.

A couple of the arched doors have integrated drip edges over the full arch, I think if we tape or liquid flash the head we should be good there/no need to add an additional drip cap.

For the flanged windows and doors, do we need to add a drip cap?

Keep in mind we’ve used liquid flashing over the top and side flanges.  We have not carried the liquid flashing completely over the flange to cover the head of the window frame, but are sealing the nail fin/flange to head joint.  Milgard installation instructions do not mention a drip cap.

We have one arched flangeless door, again liquid flashed to the rough opening.  Liquid flashing is carried down onto the frame of the door.  Door is covered by a 24″ overhang but cladding is stone and underside of overhang is sloped toward to the wall.  Here if we carried the liquid flashing from the wall over the frame should that be OK without a drip cap?

From a belt and suspenders approach, I’d say we should be using a metal head flashing/drip cap on all the windows and doors that don’t have one already integrated – is that best practice?

Project is in southern california so while we dont get a ton of water, want to err on the side of durability.   Thanks for the advice.