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Interior-side polyiso was often done in my area in the 1980s for higher-performing homes. There’s nothing wrong or risky about it, in a cold climate. One downside is that it doesn’t address thermal bridging where interior wall partitions meet exterior walls, which were traditionally filled with framing lumber. In my area, I often see mold […]
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I’m currently designing a proposal for a home in Portland, Maine (Climate Zone 6). The window detail uses Corten steel as the exterior material, which provides an overhang for summer shading while also functioning as flashing. It’s attached directly to the sheathing so that it aligns with the wooden sill. My design intent is to […]
I have a situation where the new roof was framed over the old roof. I’ll include a sketch. My question is, where the old roof meets the ceiling it gets very tight and I’m practically unable to insulate much, at least not without touching the underside of the old sheathing. What is the best way […]
Hello! I’m seeking advice on how to insulate the rim joist area on my 1950’s Cape Cod near Philadelphia. It’s a stick frame with brick veneer (no weep holes as far as I can tell), and the basement is a walkout. The joists sit on a sill plate, which sits on a block wall. At […]
PETER Engle | Oct 25, 2025 09:52am | #1 With a location at the bottom of a hill, your house is more likely than most to take on water. If it’s not too late, you should apply both insulation and a waterproofing system (not damp-proofing) to the exterior foundation walls. Warm ‘n Dry is one […]